Sneak peek at Claudine: Odette chef Julien Royer’s new French restaurant in Dempsey
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Sneak peek at Claudine: Odette chef Julien Royer'southward new French eatery in Dempsey
What does the Michelin-starred chef like to eat on his day off? Just peek at the carte du jour at Claudine, which is named in honor of his mum, when it opens on Nov sixteen.
Claudine 'Bouillabaisse' featuring John Dory, razor clams, mussels, scallops and carabinero prawn heads with fennel and potato in a robust fish stew. (Photo: Claudine)
xv Nov 2022 07:08AM (Updated: 16 Nov 2022 02:51PM)
Chef Julien Royer must accept had his ear talked off about how lovely but rare a treat dining at iii-Michelin-starred Odette is. We surmise this because nosotros personally have done this ourselves at some signal.
Well, at present he can tell people similar us, "In that location'due south Claudine".
His third eating house (afterward three-Michelin-starred Odette and one-starred Louise in Hong Kong) opens on Tuesday (Nov xvi) in the Dempsey area, and if enjoying champagne and oysters in an erstwhile chapel sounds like your idea of a gastronomic skilful time, then you've come to the correct place.
Claudine takes over the space of The White Rabbit, located in a erstwhile armed forces chapel congenital in the 1930s. Similar Odette, the restaurant is opened in partnership with The Lo & Behold Group, under which the now-defunct White Rabbit also sheltered.
The beautiful heritage building has been given a cosmetic refresh, as well as a layout redesign – a large, brilliant open kitchen now occupies one stop, while the bar sits at the contrary end under a carefully preserved stained-glass window.
The chapel'southward original elements, like its wrought-iron window grilles, are balanced out past bold blueprint touches such equally a deep red ceiling and a 15m-long decorative light snaking across the dining room, likewise as mirrored lamps reminiscent of traditional French bistros and striking panels of pressed grasses.
On the bill of fare are luxed-up French classics like steak tartare, vol-au-vent, pepper steak and a testify-stopping 'bouillabaisse'; and playful desserts like a new spin on the traditional ile flottante or floating island, and the "Pariterole", a hybrid of the Paris-Brest and the profiterole.
"Many dishes are inspired past what I like to swallow when I go out. We'll have some very French classics like steak au poivre and creme caramel. This is stuff I actually enjoy finding on the bill of fare. Y'all'll have a sense of locality and Southeast Asian influence on the bill of fare too, considering I believe a sense of place in any eating place is very important."
Asian influences in the cuisine come, for example, in the form of a dumpling dish with Mozambique langoustine and saccharide snap peas; and also in more than subtle ways such as Royer deciding to include prawn heads in the 'bouillabaisse' considering he's come to enjoy their flavor as locals do.
The eating house'southward kitchen is overseen past executive chef Julien Mercier, a longtime friend of Royer's; the two once worked together closely and Royer was insistent that Mercier was the right person for the task.
The idea for Claudine was born two and a one-half years agone, Royer told united states. "I always thought there was a gap in the market in Singapore," he said.
Betwixt your everyday bistro brasserie and your very loftier-end French dining destination, there was nothing in between. "The thought was to make full that gap in between, for people who like really high quality cooking, great ingredients and products, a Michelin-star level of cooking and precision, merely at the same time don't desire to spend iii, four or more than hours at the table."
Claudine, in fact, is the kind of identify Royer himself envisions spending time at subsequently a game of tennis on his solar day off.
"Maybe this is a bit selfish, only I personally love to leave and eat in a identify similar this on my mean solar day off. And I volition!" he chuckled. "Claudine will be an everyday eatery of joie de vivre, and most chiefly, a neighbourhood French restaurant. You can come here and have a drinking glass of wine and eat something at the bar, y'all can come with your family on the weekend for brunch, you can come for a business dinner in the middle of the calendar week."
Odette, Louise, Claudine – how does he proceed track of all the female energy in his life?
"It'south very easy because they are the ones who are very close to my centre and shaped me as a chef and every bit a man," he said with a laugh. While Odette and Louise are restaurants named after his grandmothers, "Claudine is the proper name of my mum. So, this is coming from deep inside, and this is my apprehensive roots and beginnings that I want to translate into the cooking".
Dishes from his hometown in central French republic's Auvergne region – the same ones his female parent used to melt at home – will be given a luxed-up twist.
"At that place is a dish that is very typical for my hometown and something that I grew up eating a lot. It's called chou farci. It'south a cabbage that has been blanched so stuffed with pork," he said. While it'southward traditionally considered a humble dish of leftovers, "Nosotros add a little scrap of luxury – we take a bit of foie gras here, and we balance the level of richness with a little bit of (prune). And then we put it back together and bake information technology".
Chef de cuisine Loic Portalier, who comes to Claudine from Louise in Hong Kong, took the fourth dimension to show us the steps of making the dish, from layering the cabbage and pork to rolling it into a dense sphere to gear up it for baking.
Royer'south early food memories growing upward in France are of "very uncomplicated, very humble dishes that bring a lot of joy to the table", he said. A lentil salad, for example, "because lentils are quite popular in our region. We used to do lentil salad with pork. My mum would saute pork trotter quickly in a pan and we would eat it with a very intense vinegar dressing. Nosotros're going to accept a version of that hither, a piddling flake elevated again.
"Just, you know, I think the pleasure of food can come from something very uncomplicated. And I don't really value the notion of luxury ingredients. I think a piece of carrot or parsnip can be as cute as lobster or caviar."
He added: "The eatery is named after my mum, but the concept actually is what I think a French eating place could and should exist in 2021.
"I think the ultimate pleasure and the ultimate goal of united states as cooks, equally chefs, is when you can manage to give emotion to people through food and cuisine. And this is what my grandma Odette and my mum Claudine did – giving the states pleasure and happiness through food."
Claudine is at 39C Harding Road.
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